Anchors A-WEIGH

I had the good fortune last week to visit Chicago--probably my favorite city that I wouldn't want to live in. Its importance as a food town has recently been highlighted for the unwashed masses by the appearance of locals Art Smith (Table Fifty-Two) and Art and Soul), Graham Elliot Bowles and Rick Bayless (Frontera Grill and Topolobampo)on Top Chef Masters.

The reason for my trip was to attend Lollapalooza and anticipating the impending frenzy of the Friday-Sunday event, I was looking forward to a relaxed night-before meal with my friend Jonathan and his wife, Liz. His dinner choice was right on the money--Twin Anchors Restaurant & Tavern, a Chicago institution dating back to 1932, housed in three-story Old Town building which was built in 1881. And the Dean of the Old School, Sinatra, helped make the place with his frequent visits starting in the 50's.

Even on a sultry summer Thursday evening, it was packed, but no worries as the "Tavern" part ensured some good, old fashioned bartending. And indeed I was not disappointed as I was poured an excellent Makers Manhattan with the inclusion of requested bitters (no, I didn't have the temerity to ask for Fernet Branca). Hey, I said, "on the rocks," but whatever.

The restaurant's name is a nod to its founders' affiliation with the Chicago Yacht Cub which also explains some of the nautical decor inside the informal, tavern-esque space. But even surrounded by anchors and steering wheels, this isn't the place you're ordering Sole Meuniere. You're ordering one thing, mister, and that's ribs, and make 'em "zesty!" The meaty baby backs are slow cooked and basted with either a mild or zesty (and well-named at that) barbecue sauce. They arrive at your table beautifully crusted with sauce and just the right amount of char at the ends, and the taste is magnificent.



For side orders we opted for "Homemade Zesty Baked Beans," of course with pulled pork in the sauce, and pepper jack creamed spinach which would have been better if it had been a little hotter and thus less coagulated, and of course, onion rings which seemed to be a requirement by the looks of everyone else's plates within view.

I left well-fed in both stomach and soul, ready to face the next three days of sweat, rock 'n' roll and ironic t-shirts. If only I had one that said "I"m keepin' it ZESTY, yo."

--Savage